Where I am

Parbatipur, my home away from home, is a small town in Dinajpur district, north-western Bangladesh. It has a population of about 350 000 people, including a significant minority of indigenous communities. A major railway junction during the colonial era, it is now more of a sleepy backwater, dotted with crumbling red-brick bungaloes, where buffaloes are more common than cars.

About me

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After graduating in 2008, I decided to scratch my perpetually itchy feet and try out the life of a development worker. Currently working as a VSO volunteer for a grass roots development organisation that works with indigenous peoples in north-western Bangladesh, this blog is made up of my observations, reflections and ramblings about life in this wonderfully exasperating country. Having been in Bangladesh since October 2008, the time is rapidly approaching when I will need to decide what I'm going to do next. This blog will also document my journey from Bangladesh to whatever comes next...

Sunday 17 May 2009

The unbearable harshness of honesty (22nd April 2009 )

I came out of my house this morning, as I do every morning, and walked up the dirt track, past the goat pasture and the mosque, to Parbatipur’s main street. I was wearing a spanking new salwar kameez, fresh from Dhaka, with a racy new style (no sleeves!), and I’d even bothered to put make-up on that morning, despite the fact that, although it was only 8am, the sweat was already running off me. I was feeling pretty good this morning, let’s just say.

My friend Mahabub was waiting on his motorbike a short way down the road, as he does every morning. Now, he’s an awesome guy and I really would despair without him, but on this particular morning I came close to severing our friendship forever.

He took one desultory look at my glamorous new outfit and grimaced. My feel-good bubble trembled. When pushed for an explanation of this churlish behaviour, he informed me that my kameez was ‘so rubbish’ and that I should not wear it again. Ever. My bubble promptly burst

Although he eventually decided that it wasn’t so bad on closer inspection, it was too late for my self-esteem for that day.

Bluntness is one Bangladeshi trait that I simply cannot make my mind up about. I think Englishness wires you against it, so my kneejerk reaction is always discomfort and disapproval. But it can sometimes be endearing – if someone thinks you’re looking nice, they’ll definitely tell you about it. However, it can also be soul destroying. You know that when you are paid a compliment it is genuine only because you know that, if someone thinks you’re looking rough as a bear’s arse, they’ll also let you know. And there’s no cushioning of the blow.

The list of faults that have been pointed out about me is endless. Spots is a big one. If you have a spot, don’t think you’ll get away with everyone pretending not to see it and tactfully not commenting on it. Oh, no. Instead, the offending zit is immediately pointed out. Sometimes, you’ll get a loud “What is it?” which will be followed by a long discussion about why people get spots and how unfortunate it is that spots are so obvious on white skin. Sometimes, if you’re not quick on your feet, someone might even try to remove it for you.

Another favourite subject is teeth. I know the English aren’t famed for their shiny white teeth (I like to think it’s because we’re too strong to succumb to the pressures of the orthodontic industry), and I know my own teeth are far from perfect. But it can be demoralising to have the crookedness of your teeth pointed out to you in the middle of a meeting. Whilst you’re trying to deliver a presentation.

And then there’s weight. I’ve lost count of the number of times I smiled happily when someone told me I was looking ‘healthy’, as I tucked into a second helping of rice or my fourth paratha of the morning. Then a friend helpfully pointed out that ‘healthy’ is generally used to mean fat, and that maybe I had gained some weight since coming to Bangladesh? When I had to get a few of my kameez’s taken out at the tailors, there was lots of guffawing about all the rice and misti I must have been eating. I just rise above it all.

The list goes on. I’ve been given a pitying once over and told I’m looking ‘not so fresh’ on more than one occasion. I’ve been informed that, although sometimes I look very stylish, on this particular day, I have ‘no style at all’. I’ve been told that my hairstyle is rubbish, and that I should change it in order to please ‘the people who have to look’ at me. I don’t think there’s any aspect of my appearance that has not been criticised. But like I said. I rise above it.

2 comments:

Bidesh to Bdesh said...

I am (usually) a big fan of brutal honesty, but I am not sure how I would have handled the kinda criticism you faced. You seem to have handled it pretty well though.

I am moving to Bangladesh in about a week's time, so I guess it's about time I get prepared to face some criticism too, eh? Haha

Anyway, I came across your blog as I was searching the blogosphere for anything related to Dhaka or Bangladesh. Your posts, especially this one, have been very helpful in giving me some idea of what to expect to Bangladesh.

Anonymous said...

Ha! Hilarious post. Jo, your blog really is very good - keep it up! -Dex